Wednesday, October 9, 2019
The Distribution of Economic and Social Resources Essay
The Distribution of Economic and Social Resources - Essay Example The essay "The Distribution of Economic and Social Resources" discusses the article "Families on the Fault Line: America's Working Class Speaks about the Family, the Economy, Race, and Ethnicity" by Lillian B. Rubin who identifies four different working class families: white, black, Latino and Asian. They have much in common fighting with harsh realities of life and social problems. The three main themes cover social, cultural, and economic changes which affect these families. A major concern of social thinking is to identify the nature of these relations and to trace their social and political effects. Taking into account social factors, Rubin unveils social realities form the backdrop for future generations. For instance, Rubin explains that white ethnicity has deep roots and is closely connected with psychological and political factors. The author underlines that new immigrants including Latino, Asians, and blacks force the white working class to ââ¬Ëestablish a public identity ââ¬â¢ that helps them to rise above new comers. It includes job opportunities and equal pay, training and childcare, etc. Poor education and absence of equal opportunities with ââ¬Å"whiteâ⬠working class majority are the main factors limiting the equal distribution of economic and social resources. To analyze the issue of racism, it should be mentioned that racisms are depicted as regimes of state power organized via institutional frameworks as part of the disciplinary power of state agencies, but which is subject to ongoing contestations.
Tuesday, October 8, 2019
Explain the rationale behind antibody usage in common laboratory Essay
Explain the rationale behind antibody usage in common laboratory assays such as ELISA, immunofluorescence, immunohistochemistry, - Essay Example Many clinical laboratory tests incorporate antibodies because of their unique feature in identifying and singling out among very much interrelated antigens (Estridge & Reynolds 2011). Any test concerning an antibody-antigen reaction is referred to as a serological test (Kudesia 2006, p. 197). These tests make use of the reality that a good number of viral, bacterial, fungal, and parasitic illnesses bring forth accomplished antibody rejoinders. Therefore, identification of antibodies to infection agents in patientsââ¬â¢ samples helps in the discovery of infections such as influenza, HIV, hepatitis, and rubella (Estridge & Reynolds 2011). ... Immunological tests make use of monoclonal or polyclonal antibodies. Antibodies of one class with specificity to only one epitope are called monoclonal antibodies. These antibodies are derived from a single cell line hence the name monoclonal. They are manufactured in the laboratories, making up the key reagents in most commercially available immunodiagnostic supplies. Polyclonal antibodies, on the other hand, are assortments of antibodies generated by many cell lines. These commercially available antibodies make use of a cloning process during their manufacture. The advantage of cloning antibodies is that it results in higher specificity in the antibodies. Both monoclonal and polyclonal antibodies can be produced from living organisms and cell cultures in the laboratory (Buchwalow & Bocker 2010). Scientists use mice, rats, and rabbits to clone antibodies. Antibody cloning is the production of antibodies from both living and non-living sources. The first step of monoclonal antibody p roduction in rats involves injecting the rat with an antigen that elicits an immune response by production of antibody-forming cells. These antibody forming cells (B-cells) are isolated from the organism. The B-cells then fuse with tissue cultured tumor cells to form hybridomas (Buchwalow & Bocker 2010). The hybridomas then undergo screening for antibody production after which they are cloned into many hybridomas. The final step is the isolation of monoclonal antibodies from the hybridomas. Experience shows that monoclonal antibodies from rabbits exhibit more specificity than antibodies from rats and mice (Buchwalow & Bocker 2010). Measurement of immune responses following an
Sunday, October 6, 2019
Management Essay (Job Satisfaction; Hofstede's Dice Dimensions)
Management (Job Satisfaction; Hofstede's Dice Dimensions) - Essay Example However, a personââ¬â¢s job involves much more than performing the routine technical tasks such as accounting, marketing, researching, manufacturing, engineering, driving or sweeping. Along with doing the primary tasks related to their jobs, employees are also expected to adhere to the code of conduct of the organization, coordinate with colleagues, manage relationships with superiors and fine-tune themselves in compliance with the organizational environment. Consequently, the measurement of job satisfaction is quite an intricate summation of several components involved in a personââ¬â¢s professional life. Nevertheless, after years of experiments, the two most generally accepted measurement techniques are: Single Global Rating and Summation of Job Facets. In the Single Global Rating method, employees are asked to choose on a scale of 1 to 5 with 1 representing highly satisfied and 5 representing highly dissatisfied. While in Summation of Job Facets method, employees are require d to express their sentiments with regard to their job in words. The two methods have their advantages as well as disadvantages and are believed to be helpful in their respective domains (Robbins, 2009). Over the years, different theories have been developed by management researchers to expound the concept of job satisfaction. ... Ambrose and Mr. Smith. Mr. Ambrose values variety in his job while Mr. Smith is indifferent about variety in job; then Mr. Ambrose will be more satisfied in a job which offers greater amount of variety and less satisfied in a job which is monotonous, in contrast to Mr. Smith. Another important theory related to Job Satisfaction is Dispositional Theory. It suggests that irrespective of their jobs, people hold certain in-born dispositions that result in them developing a certain type of job satisfaction. Research even suggests that identical twins who have not been brought up together exhibit analogous levels of job satisfaction. Consequently, attempts were made to discover the psychological mechanisms that bring about dispositional roots of job satisfaction. The outcomes have shown that people who have positive core self evaluations ââ¬â who place confidence in their ability, have much higher levels of job satisfaction in contrast to those who have negative core self valuations (M artinko, 2004). Two Factor Theory (Motivator-Hygiene Theory) groups all the pertinent job facets under two broad factors - Motivators and Hygiene Factors. Motivators include facets such as appreciation, recognition, interesting work, etc. They yield positive feelings related to the job resulting in high job satisfaction. Alternatively, Hygiene factors comprise of job security, pay, work settings, etc. They do not yield affirmative satisfaction, however dissatisfaction emerges from their nonexistence. For example, an employee Ms. Laren would be motivated by challenging work and recognition of performance, resulting in high satisfaction; emanating from the intrinsic nature of the job, which stimulates personal development. While on another occasion, uncertainty hovering over her
Saturday, October 5, 2019
Consturction Law (Report) Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays - 2000 words
Consturction Law (Report) - Essay Example 1.3 This law stands out from the other laws because it is sensitive. In construction and contract laws, claims and counter claims are the way that the employer and the contractor understand one another. Claim that is assertion for more funds towards a project, due to extension time for completion is under application by contractual arbitrators in engineering and construction law. This is a sensitive law because it has unforeseen shortcomings which have to be prepared for in advance. In order to understand the importance of this law one has to understand the principles involved in contract and construction law. 1.4 This law causes conflicts, however, the construction industry believes in solving disputes in a medical approach. This approach involves identifying the problem in the first place, then dealing with the problem. Every construction worker knows it is their personal obligation to keep everyone happy by opening up about any conflicts. 2.1This report is necessary to help the sub-contractors to Mekeng Company avert any further accidents that could lead to loss of human life. Interrelation between the contractors, sub-contractors and the employer is important in creating a good working environment. After the investigation into the scaffolding accident, the findings prove that more employees are less equipped to deal with heights and there is danger of another accident happening unless something is under change. 2.2 Although the employer is at fault, the ignorance of the employee is also to blame in trying to deal with an area n he was not an expert. The center for occupational safety and health administration (OSHA) requires that before the employer sends the employee off to work, they have adequate training to deal with the hazards in their line of duty. It is also OSHAââ¬â¢s principle that certain risky jobs are for those certified and specially qualified
Friday, October 4, 2019
Week 9 Question 1 Working Capital Management Assignment
Week 9 Question 1 Working Capital Management - Assignment Example Other technologies for planning and scheduling that are offered by companies like JDA, Logility, and Manhattan Associates offer good solutions. These are especially in the computation of safety stocks. Survey respondent tools from Akzo Nobel helps in identifying obsolete inventory. Looking at cash management, businesses find themselves handling a number of huge cash transactions. These transactions include collection of receivables and making payments. Managing these processes ensure that the business grows and succeeds in the industry. This is because cash management technologies reduce errors that result from manually managing cash. Tellermate electronic cash counters are examples of such technology. This technology is especially useful for businesses that handle a lot of cash. This is because they reduce the time that it takes to count cash and also reduces errors (Tellermate, 1996). There are other technologies that would enhance working capital management. However, it is critical to ensure that the technology that the business plans to use enhances the working capital. This is mainly by looking at inventory optimization where the technology should help the business is optimizing inventory. The technology should also be able to measure the business working capital and be able borrow ideas from companies that do well in managing working capital. This is so as to be able to improve the working capital in the business (Preve, 2010). Partridge, A. R. (2007, 08). Complex Technology Optimizes Basic Concepts. Retrieved 03 06, 2013, from Inbound Logistics:
Thursday, October 3, 2019
A Love Story in Boracay Essay Example for Free
A Love Story in Boracay Essay Philippines is a nation located at South-East of Asia, just east of Vietnam. It is surrounded by three different seas, namely, the Celebes Sea, the South China Sea, and the Philippine Sea. Comprising of 7, 107 islands, this country has a total area of 300, 000 sq km. Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao are the three islands that form the main island groups of the Philippines. There are numerous tourist attractions in the Philippines. One of them is the famous Boracay Island. This island has white, sandy beaches and luxurious resorts. à One day, I spent a lazy twilight just wading through the calm waters. The sea was very much alive yet it the air seemed romantic. I was pondering on important things when I saw a couple fighting. The woman was close to tears and the man was regretful. Something he said must have hurt the poor womanââ¬â¢s heart. The woman walked away, leaving the man confused and unsure of what to do.I thought, ââ¬Å"Maybe love isnââ¬â¢t enough to keep relationships last.â⬠I for one did not really believe in love. But I decided to approach the guy and offer a helping hand anyway. I asked him if heââ¬â¢s okay. He said, ââ¬Å"I donââ¬â¢t know. Itââ¬â¢s just that sheââ¬â¢s too vulnerable. I donââ¬â¢t know how to handle her.â⬠The man got something from his pocket. It was a little heart-shaped case that no doubt contained a ring. ââ¬Å"I was supposed to ask her to marry me but she burst out crying even before I popped the question. I have no idea whatââ¬â¢s wrong with her. Could it be that she loves someone else?â⬠, he said. I shook my head. ââ¬Å"No, she loves you. I saw the way she looked at you. It was a look of love but it had a hint of pain. Maybe you did something to cause that pain. You know, women are really sensitive.â⬠ââ¬Å"So what do you reckon I should do?â⬠He looked at me with hopeful eyes. This man really loves her woman so I thought hard on helping them. We were sitting with our backs on a tree when something came up my mind.mââ¬Å"I know!â⬠I exclaimed. ââ¬Å"You should treat like sheââ¬â¢s the most beautiful girl in the planet.â⬠ââ¬Å"How?â⬠The next day, he asked the woman for a date at a grandiose restaurant in Boracay. When the woman arrived at the place, she was lead into the balcony at the second floor. She couldnââ¬â¢t be more surprised to find that the whole place was closed or reserved just for the two of them. While they were eating, the favorite band of the lady was hired to provide music for that very special night. After eating, they open a bottle of Champagne and as soon as the guy had poured the Champagne into the wine glass, the woman noticed a diamond ring floating happily. She blushed and giggled. She was about to ask for an explanation from the guy when fireworks began to color the night sky. The scene was oh so breathtaking. When the fireworks display was almost over, up in the sky, written were the words: ââ¬Å"I love you. Please marry me.â⬠The two of them were married three months after that and I was really happy to have helped save their once-drowning relationship. Even now, when I think about Boracay, I remember those two persons who were madly in love with each other despite their differences. And, most importantly, I now believe in love. It was not the help that I gave that propelled their relationship into the right direction. It was their love that conquered everything; I just gave it a little push. Works Cited http://www.iexplore.com/dmap/Philippines/Where+to+Go. 2007. Online. May 23, 2007.
The Innovation Of Fashion Designers Cultural Studies Essay
The Innovation Of Fashion Designers Cultural Studies Essay Vivienne Westwood has been an innovative and provocative fashion designer. She has been influenced primarily by the Punk movement and that is one of the reasons I chose to research her fashion collections. This essay is going to investigate the importance of the relationship between Vivienne Westwood and the Punk movement to the fashion society. Westwood established the background for the punk movement in the United Kingdom which affected a lot the fashion styles and until today many clothes are designed according to the Punk fashion style, for example the skinny jeans. I believe that this investigation will provide an insight on sociocultural facts and events that are memorable for the world of fashion. What attracted me to it was that Westwood who hadnt done any studies on fashion, met Malcolm McLaren and together with their clothes, they were influenced by the British culture so much and they started working at the time when Punk movement was established. This made me think that when one has a gift and wants to become a successful person, eventually he will achieve his goals. Vivienne Westwood has had a successful career for more than 40 years. The essay will focus on the first eight years of her career from 1970 to 1978. During this period the punk movement appeared all over the world. Punk was actually a music genre that developed during this period in the United States, Australia and the United Kingdom. In the United Kingdom, which is the homeland of Westwood, Punk appeared as an alternative political movement, which expressed rebellion, but also appeared as a music scene which brought to the spotlight many punk music groups like the Sex Pistols etc. It also appeared as a fashion style. British adolescents have long created stylish subcultures in order to express all manner of rebellionsà [1]à . The punk style is the connection between Vivienne Westwood and Punk. Therefore, the research question formed is; How Vivienne Westwoods collections were affected by the punk movement? The essay will start the biography of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren and I will refer to the definition and the characteristics of the punk movement in the United Kingdom. I will followins also write about the Sex Pistols and the New York Dolls which are both Punk music groups and wore clothes of Vivienne Westwood. Following I will move into comparing in chronological order collections of Vivienne Westwood with particular punk music groups. The collections I will look into are; Let it Rock 1970, Too fast to live Too young to die, 1972, Sex, 1974 and Seditionaries, 1976. This procedure will lead into the conclusion and my findings on Vivienne Westwoods influences from the Punk movement MAIN BODY Biography The punk movement appeared as a rock music genre which developed in the decade of the 70s in the United States, Australia and the United Kingdom. They created hard-edged music, characterized by short songs, stripped-down instrumentation and often political, anti-establishment lyrics. In Britain, the Punk movement was politically active and their main concern was the economy of the country. Many people were unemployed because the economy in the United Kingdom in the 1970s was in a recession. Early Punks played a role in politics and protest, and they wanted to express themselves as anticapitalists, antihippies, anarchists and fascists. They portrayed themselves as political radicals by drawing on themes of Marxism, fascism etc. Beyond the fact that punk started out as a music-based subculture, there is a debate about its geographic origins, its ideologies, its membership etc. Most published accounts of punk focus on the origins and flourishing of punk subculture from late 1960s to lat e 1970s.à [2]à Punk may have originated in the United States, but punk as a subculture gelled in mid-1970s Britain.à [3]à . Punk appeared also as a fashion style. The basic male uniform consisted of combat boots, leather jacket, torn jeans, shaved head and most girls tried to adopt this male uniform completely. The ways in which the punk girls combined their punkness and their gender is very unique. They combined female items with punk elements. The influence of the Punk style on music groups is remarkable. The Sex Pistols and New York Dolls are English bands which formed in 1975 in London and their manager was McLaren who was born in 1946 and is a performer and former manager of the two groups. Music, fashion, the Punk Movement was something that attracted him when he was in a Fine Arts college. Malcolm was a friend of Vivienne Westwoods brother and thats how they met. Vivienne Westwood was born in Glossop, Derbyshire on 8 April 1941. She is as much of a symbol of England a s the Queen and the black cab.à [4]à She always liked fashion and a quote of her is that Fashion became her baby, she picked it up and never put it down.à [5]à In 1965 she met Malcolm McLaren and a relationship began. Together they established the foundation of the punk movement by opening shops and creating clothes related to rebellion and punk. Westwoods career in fashion was galvanized by her partner, Malcolm.à [6]à Their working relationship lasted from 1970 until 1983, and as is referred to above launched Punk. In 1971 Vivienne thought they should set up a clothes shop, because Malcolm was certainly fascinated by clothes. Thereby, Malcolm found a place at Kings Road which was named Paradise Garage and the couple made an agreement to own part of the shop. Let It Rock was the name of Viviennes first collection and the name of the shop too. Her first collection included pieces of drape jackets, leather ties with plastic sleeves, drainpipe trousers, ruffled shirt, day-glo socks, bootlace tie etc. Her favorite fabric was leather, she used a lot of zippers and slogans in order to decorate her clothes. They were interested in that era and they wanted to approach the Teddy boys who were into rebellion and could things stir up. Vivienne sourced authentic buttons, cloth and linings and informed by research in Teddy Boy clubs, copied and recoloured the look.à [7]à Vivienne began making trousers and more and more people were coming to the shop to try on their day-glo jackets, the special blue and silver trousers etc. At that period of time Vivienne and Malcolm went to a big music concert and were inspired in order to make their own T-shirt, Viva la Rock n Roll. Malcolm described rock n roll as the jungle beat that threatened white civilization.à [8]à It is a fact that in the collection Let It Rock of Vivienne Westwood we dont see a big influence of the punk movement. This can be explained by the fact that at the period of time that Let It Rock was launched, it only the foundations of the punk movement had been established. Despite this fact we can find characteristics of the pun k style in specific clothes of Let It Rock. Let It Rock Collection Figure 2. Sid Vicious, Let It Rock, 1970-1972 Figure 1. Vivienne Westwood, Let It Rock, 1970-1972Punks and members of music groups wore clothes that were ripped because in this way they were expressing rebellion through their style. In Figure 1 we see a T-shirt of Let It Rock which shows the influence of punk. Punk style was characterized by clothes with zippers, with holes, slogans, pins, pockets etc. The T-shirt in Figure 1 is ripped like all the clothes of Punks and it has many zippers and pockets and slogans that Vivienne used a lot. A characteristic example is Sid Vicious (Figure 2) who is wearing a ripped T-shirt of the Westwood Let It Rock collection and skinny jeans.. Moreover the slogans for her T-shirts were often lyrics of Sex Pistols songs. A characteristic example we see in Figure 3, in which Westwood is wearing her T-shirt with a photo of the Queen and the title of the Sex Pistols song God save the Queen on top. Figure 3. Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood, Let It Rock 1970-1972 Figure 4. Destroy T-shirt, Let It Rock 1970-1972Another example of a T-shirt with a slogan is shown in Figure 4, in which Vivienne wants to get the message across that Nazis should not exist. She was against all this racism against the Jewish people etc and she wanted to make something in order to express her disappointment about the Nazis and maybe she thought that she could change something. Thats why she thought to make a T-shirt with the swastika and the work Destroy on top. An example for leather gear is Sid Vicious again (figure 5) who is wearing a leather jacket at a Sex Pistol concert in Notre Dame Hall. Also, Vivienne, who is promoting her style and her clothes by wearing a leather outfit herself. Figure 5. Sid Vicious and Vivienne Westwood, Let It Rock 1970-1972 Although the Let It Rock collection and shop were very successful, Vivienne and Malcolm were searching for something new because the trend of the Teddy Boys had started to elapse. The Teddy Boys werent such rebels after all and because the couple wanted to express rebellion they needed something new. They started experimenting with rockers and a bike boys look and a tougher leather look which was accompanied with punk style. So, in the spring of 1973, they renamed the shop into Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die and Vivienne started a new collection. Malcolm started buying fabrics such as velvet and Lurex and he thought that they should sell second-hand jeans, customized leather, pegged trousers, double-breast Zoot suits with padded shoulders etc. Because some striped and plain black T-shirts were left over from Let It Rock collection, Vivienne decided against throwing these clothing items away and chose to alter them by ripping them, knotting, cutting holes, rolling and stitching sl eeves together. Thereby, Westwood made a series of extraordinary clothes and especially T-shirts collaged with feathers, nipple-revealing zippers, studs, chains, potato prints, hand-stencilled garments and odd objects. She also put glitter on clothes and the whole work turned into something more creative and fun for her. Together with the punk style they also wanted to search for motorbike wear because the couple was interested in rubber, leather and fetishism. This collection of Westwood had the characteristic that, it was a point at which elements of sex imagery, cult fashion and politics met. This characteristic was sometimes a disadvantage because they were sometimes prosecuted under the obscenity of law for exposing to public view an independent exhibition . One characteristic example is that one of their T-shirts showed two naked cowboys which was thought to be unethical, unacceptable and inappropriate by society at large. Vivienne explained, à ¢Ã¢â ¬Ã ¦ my job is to confront the Establishment to try to find out where the freedom lies and what you can do: the most obvious way I did that was through the porn T-shirtsà [9]à . Actually she always wanted to express sex somehow. Even when she put zippers on her clothes above all there were all sort of other sexy associations with the zippersà [10]à . All these characteristics like for example the zippers, leather, chains etc made her clothes surreal and somehow controversial. Also some of the clothes were characterized as rough and deliberately confrontational. To Fast To Live To Young To Die Collection In comparison with Let It Rock collection, here in the TFTLTYTD collection the influence of punk plays a bigger role and we can find characteristics of the punk movement in many clothes of Westwood. Figure 6. Venus T-shirt, TFTLTYTD 1972-1974In Figure 6 we can see Simon Barker wearing the famous hand-made Venus T-shirt which had armholes edged with sections of bike tyres and trimmed with horse hair. For this T-shirt Vivienne was inspired from motorbike wear and the punk movement. Generally, she used also many clues in order to express sexuality. Regarding to the punk style as I have referred to above, the clothes have chains, slogans, pins, leather etc.. So, here in this T-shirt we have as elements taken from punk such as lots of pins, chains and of course the slogan Venus. Also we see that Simon Barker is wearing leather trousers and army boots that Punks quite often wore. Figure 7. Vivienne Westwood, TFTLTYTD 1972-1974Moreover, as I referred to above, Vivienne wanted to express sex through her clothes, so most of the times she made and wore clothes with which she wanted to show that she was against all taboos. A characteristic example is in Figure 7, in which we see Vivienne wearing a shirt, a jacket and underwear from the TFTLTYTD collection without wearing jeans, or trousers above etc. By appearing in public like this she wanted to get the message across that she hated Puritanism and that people should not had taboos and prejudices regarding sex and the expression of the human body. The above opinion is also supported by Figure 8 in which we see Malcolm wearing the T-shirt Two Naked Cowboys of the TFTLTYTD collection. This is one of the T-shirts that had the couple prosecuted under the obscenity of law for exposing to public view an independent exhibitionà [11]à . Vivienne didnt want to be limited in her designs regarding to ethical implications but sometimes she was obligated to be limited because of the authorities. Figure 8. Two naked cowboys, TFTLTYTD 1972-1974 Figure 9. McLaren and Westwood, TFTLTYTD 1972-1974 In addition, Vivienne herself wore the clothes she designed and by doing so she aimed at promoting the clothes and the punk style also. A characteristic example is Figure 9 in which we see Vivienne with Malcolm in a Photo shout. Vivienne is wearing leather jeans and a blouse with a zipper that could be characterized as conservative. In this photo shooting she wanted to wear something conservative but still in leather so we continue to see the effect of punk on her. She wanted to provoke and show that she is different, that she can be conservative through Punk too. As time passed McLaren set the scene for Punk via the next venture into a field that he knew would provoke still more outrage. He said characteristically in an interview of Elle magazine in November of 1985; It started with an interest in any form of youth revolt, so that it involved Teddy Boys and Rockers. Then we brought the sex element into it.à [12]à So, in 1974 they renamed their shop to SEX written with pink letters again. At that time they started selling bondage gear such as rubber body suits, rubber masks, leather mini skirts, leather underwear, shirts with chains, padlocks, fishnets, fetishistic lace-up boots and they also sold stilettos. At that time their slogan was Rubber wear for the office. The couple wanted to prove that they didnt care about taboos and prejudices and thats why in this collection they marketed clothes related to sadomasochism, fascism, pornography etc. Her clothes continued to shock society if we consider that this collection was selling sex more than the previous ones. Vivienne explains, all the clothes that I wore that people would regard as shocking, I wore them because I just thought I looked like a princess from another planet, I just thought I looked incredible in these clothes.à [13]à . The influence of Punk in SEX is more than in the previous collections because SEX clothes were mostly made of leather, chains etc which are basic elements of punk style. Punk was a cross-fertilization of SEX clothesà [14]à . Some people believe that punk was an eruption in the streets. But what it was infact was a fashion e vent from the start, like the creation of a historical painting based on a revolution; because that is what it actually was, a revolution. Sex Collection A characteristic example of this sexual revolution that Vivienne wanted to express through fashion is the T-shirt Tits in figure 10. It is a T-shirt from SEX and it was worn by both men and women but it was preferred by men because they wanted to shock by expressing the idea of homosexuality; Figure 10. Tits T-shirt, SEX 1974-1976 Figure 10. Tits T-shirt, SEX 1974-1976 Moreover as it was referred to above, punk influenced SEX in such a way Vivienne used their elements and their main fabric, leather in making her clothes. In Figure 11 we observe how punk influenced SEX. In this picture we see Jordan, shop girl of 1974, wearing a leather outfit of SEX. In the foreground it is shown a body suit made of leather belts and in the background we can find rubber clothes hanging on racks. Figure 11. Jordan, SEX 1974-1976 We can find another example of Punk influence on SEX in Figure 12, in which we see Johnny Rotten wearing a black leather bondage suit. This piece of clothing shows the combination of punk and sexuality because leather is the fabric of punks and when we talk about bondage suits we relate them to sadomasochism and generally sex. Figure 12. John Rotten, SEX 1974-1976 Furthermore in Figure 13 it can be detected Vivienne wearing a total black outfit made of rubber and leather. It has some pins on top and Vivienne is also holding some leather straps attached to other leather objects. Malcolm and Vivienne had gone all the way by making a public display of the leather and rubber stuff that fetishists succumbed to in private. Figure 13. Vivienne Westwood, SEX 1974-1976 What SEX was and generally what all Westwood collections were was a complex amalgam of various stylish influences, in which Punk had its roots in the streets of London and the music scenes of New York. As time went by the New York Dolls made their own decadent outfits to which Westwood added elements from the torn clothes of the pin-ups in Let it Rock, chains, zips, rubber wear and bondage garments of SEX. Consequently, in 1977 the shop and the collection changed its name yet again into Seditionaries under the slogan Clothes for heroes. The word Seditionaries was Viviennes concoction and was based on the fact that someone needed to seduce people in order to revolt. This moment was the peak of all this punk madness. In this collection the zips and straps of obscure sexual fetishism were transformed into fashion. Malcolm and Vivienne continued selling SEX T-shirts and fetish gear but everything was much smarter, less underground and less provincially Britishà [15]à . They made some T-shirts with photos, slogans on top and again they borrowed elements from the Punk movement. Savage wrote that Seditionaries brought the modern look in the 1970s but also Seditionaries clothes unleashed a more violent reaction combined with punk elements than SEX clothes. If the first Punks had thrown up every youth style since the war and then stuck it together with safety pins and panache, Seditionaries avoided retro yet caught the confusion: the look both in the original and the imitations spread thoughout the worldà [16]à . This collection included again bondage trousers and clothes with straps and zips. Westwood in this collection used wool, mohair and leather for fabric which were elements of Punk movement. Westwood also made trousers based on military wear but even then she added her own elements based on sado-masochistic and fetishist gear. The Punks at that time had their own army uniform. The clothes were accessorized with pins, razor blades and silver phalluses. They tended to throw together sado-masochistic bondage paraphernalia and clothing associated with the hospital or the mental asylums so that they produced a surreal commentary on the anarchic tendencies of the sartorial display. Again with this collection Vivienne wanted to reveal taboos and mess with the normative class coding. One of the most significant factors of Punk at that moment was that it gave license for women to dress assertively. Vivienne said characteristically that Punk was what made her think of herself as a designer. Actually what Punk was both for her and society was a fashionable expression of a revolution. In fact, fashion itself became a revolution. Seditionaries Collection In Figure 14 we can identify that Vivienne made such shirts like in this Figure which has an image of Karl Marx in the top left hand in order to express revolution. Punks wanted to mess with everything and break the rules and norms. Marx symbolized revolution and was against the system as were the Punks. And this is the reason why her clothes appealed to Punks. Figure 14. Punk shirt, Seditionaries 1977 Figure 15. Blue cotton shirt, Seditionaries 1976-1980In Figure 15 we observe a Seditionaries blue cotton parachute shirt with strap harness, printed with situationist slogans such as Only Anarchists are Pretty. Regarding the Seditionaries clothes, they had borrowed elements from the Punk movement and also elements from the SEX collection. All these straps and slogans were characteristic of the Punk style and the whole parachute thing reminds us of the SEX bondage gear. In the 16th and last Figure we detect a few clothes of the Seditionaries worn by a number of Punks. The woolen sweaters that are shown in the figure and all these parachute jackets have been borrowed from the Punk style. In addition the jackets also have elements from SEX bondage and sado-masochistic gear which exists also in Seditionaries collection. Figure 16. Punk clothes, Seditionaries 1977 Conclusion Manifests are always written after an event. In retrospect, the manifest of the Punk movement allowed a person to express himself, to succeed or even fail in extravagant way. The music, fashion and of course the Punk movement were a huge art festival which was born from the life and the experiences that Malcolm McLaren gained in the school of Arts. He inspired Vivienne to create this vast business in the world of fashion based on the Punk movement. This was the new fashion, the new way of thinking. The couple started from a small shop in Kings Road and step by step they created their own rules for life, their own norms, their own identity. In other words they set the foundation for an alternative society. Of course all these things were based on the Punk movement and primarily on their ideology. Vivienne not only used the elements of the Punk movement but also their ideology. Through her fashion, she wanted to make rebellion and go against mainstream society, just like the Punks. Tha ts why she used symbols related to Punks and rebellion in her clothes like for example Karl Marx, or the swastika with the word Destroy on top etc. Combining irony and the ideology of Punks she wanted to break taboos like the issue of homosexuality or nudity etc. Actually McLaren and Westwoods aim was to create something new, totally fashionable while they were using symbolism to convey their ideas. And that was the point where they needed Punk, as inspiration and influence. Vivienne characteristically says about Punk Im proud to have been part of it. It was heroic at the timeà [17]à . But as it is known, fashion is like a circle and the trends change every now and then, so the whole issue with the influence of the Punk movement in Viviennes career stopped at the beginning of the 80s. From the 80s there on, she introduced a startling and highly influential new vocabulary about fashion which was characterized as nostalgia for the future. In spite of this she never forgot her orig ins. Vivienne never created something conservative despite the fact that their future collections dont have elements from the Punk movement. Viviennes career was built on punk. Whenever she gives an interview she refers to the influence that Punk had on her work and life, saying characteristically that Punk and McLaren were the two factors that encouraged her to make fashion and to be who she is now. The punk period helped her develop creatively. Having created the Sex Pistols look he gained more self-confidence and realized her vast creative abilities. Fortunately, Punk helped Westwood expand her abilities, and identify her talent. Westwood was determined to leave her mark on international fashion which she certainly did.
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